We spoke to Kazumi Umezawa, Yaccomaricard Planning Director. Kazumi San tell us more about spring summer 23, new techniques, theme and colours we can find in this collection.
Please tell us about the spring/summer collection.
The seasonal theme is "Bauhaus geometry". The Bauhaus designers created many innovative designs using geometric shapes, clean lines and unique pop colours, and that spirit inspired our collection. We are using our pintucks and introducing new techniques for a modern and artistic feel synonymous with the "modernism" of the movement.
What did you want to achieve within the collection?
The aim is to create sophisticated pieces using playful design and innovative form. We wanted to express modernism with a strong feeling of individuality. We wanted it to feel positive, express a love of clothing in the wearer, and make them feel that they can take on new challenges. We want to bring energy to those who wear our clothes.
Describe some of the new techniques.
The designers worked a lot with contrast and texture. The Cord Tassel series launched the collection and focused on cotton cord detailing using strong linear patterns in accent colours. We wanted to have texture present also, so we worked with coloured cord that matched the cloth, introducing a completely different look and feel to the pieces.
In the Colour Block series, we've introduced coloured stitching, again in contrast to the cloth; this technique created subtle colour changes and gave our shirts a softer edge.
The Bauhaus series was a chance for our designers to create something quite special, so much work goes into each piece, and it illustrates what we were trying to achieve with the season's theme. It's soft, feminine, and still has the feel of Yaccomaricard.
Later in the season, we will introduce lightweight summer styles in the Cut Out and Frame series, which play with transparency, layering and asymmetry.
Is there a standout technique for you in this collection?
For me, the Cut Out series is a highlight, a dress and an overlay top with fun asymmetrical designs that change and offer something new from every viewing angle. These are pieces that fashion lovers will enjoy.
We used ramie voile, two pintucked lawn styles, and three patchwork shapes. Balancing the different fabric shapes and weights created something special and new.
The design is also partly cut-worked to give a peek inside, so it works well layered over a vest or slip, and if you make it a contrasting colour, you can highlight the cut work even more.
I feel this elaborate technique expresses the theme best.
What was the colour inspiration?
Colour is a crucial element of this collection, it's based on an artistic movement, after all. The focus is on creative colours and bold colour schemes inspired by Bauhaus artists like Albers, Kandinsky and Mondrian. We wanted that to translate into a bright and uplifting colour palette.
What is a standout/highlight design for you and why?
I'm quite distressed about what to choose, but it must be the French Sleeve shirt (1023706) from the Colour Block series. The style feels new, the silhouette is minimalist, modern and beautiful, and I feel the use of pintucks, coloured stitching, and cord embroidery accents are well balanced.
Describe the collection in three words.
I need more than three words, Experimental, individual and accentuated.