We spoke to Tomoko Tanikawa; one of our Tokyo based design team who specialises in technical development. Drawing from her 23 years experience with Yaccomaricard, Tomoko tells us more about new spring/summer techniques and Tokyo's best places to visit.
Where did your passion for the industry come from? Why were you drawn to fashion?
I was fascinated by my grandmother's foot-pedal sewing machine, so from an early age, I made clothes by making patterns out of newspapers. It was my favourite pastime, so I had to choose fashion design as my future dream.
My family's pottery business and my mother's influence as a painting instructor gave me the foundation for making things, and I think it came naturally.
I don't have deep thoughts about it; I chose fashion for a simple reason, I love it, and it enriches me; if someone else can feel enriched by the clothes I have created, then there is no better profession.
You've been with the brand for a long time; why do you think the beauty of Yaccomaricard is as appealing today as it was when the brand started?
The appeal is from careful craftsmanship in collection planning, design, pattern cutting, dyeing, and sewing.
I think the unique beauty of Yaccomaricard comes because we care about the character of the clothes. The unique silhouettes, which are only apparent when you put your arms in the sleeves, and our sewing techniques, endless pleating possibilities and colour development make it a one-of-a-kind brand.
This is why our discerning customers choose to wear it; they are very sensitive to this craftsmanship.
What is the process and which part do you enjoy the most when creating a new style?
When I come across something in my life, like finding a silhouette or an exciting detail, I immediately think about how I can incorporate it into a Yaccomaricard garment. I find a lot of joy when thinking through that process.
What new techniques have you introduced for SS'22?
SS'22 has many new techniques, all varied in style and effect.
For example, this season, cotton cord embroidery is new; these are wavy lines reminiscent of calm seas, expressed using cord embroidery.
The base fabric is thinner to make the heavier cord stand out and create depth. Combine this with pintucking, and the result is a valuable piece that is both luxurious and wearable.
We also created a shirt and dress (available in the UK in June) from semi-sheer voile, changing the position of the pin-tucks in stages to create the silhouettes of both. This technique is unique to Yaccomaricard, and the pleats have to be carefully sewn. To make this work, we had to make full use of pattern technology and high-spec sewing technology derived from our continuous research and development with pin tucking and pleating.
Do you have any styling recommendations for the SS'22 collection? How are you designing the collection to be worn?
To create a more substantial presence for the spring/summer collection, we thought about transparency and combining lightweight fabrics for shirts and tops with heavier cloth items like Haori jackets and trousers.
We recommend styling the Nehru Collar Blouse 1023637 with the Oversized Linen Coat and matching trouser and the Sheared Wave Top under the Sheared Wave Jacket and Trouser.
We aimed to create a cohesive yet impactful look that we hope you will enjoy.
And do you have a favourite fabric or technique?
Garment dyeing silk is one of my favourite Yaccomaricard techniques.
The garment dyeing of silk itself isn't a method you see very often elsewhere.
It's one of the best fabrics for this dye process; an atmosphere is created from the harmony of luxurious silk and colour. It has always fascinated me.
What is your favourite style from SS'22 ?
Cotton Chiang Mai is back in the collection after a very long hiatus. Cotton Chiang Mai is a woven cotton cloth made from twisted slub yarn, which gives it a handwoven air. This tactile cotton has been paired with a tightly woven semi-opaque voile to create an oversized shirt with a cocooning silhouette (1023631). When worn with the Itajime Trouser (2030968), a striking pant dyed using a traditional Japanese board dyeing process, this creates a quirky, modern look.
Who influences your everyday style? What are the staple items in your wardrobe?
I admire how female designers dress, as it gives a glimpse of their feminine core. I especially love the handsome style of LEMAIRE's Sarah-Lynn Tran.
A staple item in my wardrobe is the Yaccomaricard shirt; wearing the shirts help me with the design process and gives me a new perspective.
Now that international travel is open again, many of our customers travel to Japan and would love to hear where they should visit; what is on your 'must-see' list for Tokyo?
I would recommend stopping by a stationery shop. Japanese stationery has evolved remarkably in both functionality and design. I recommend the Sekaido and Ito-Ya stores in Shinjuku. There is so much to see, you can spend hours looking around these stores.
Spiral Market in Aoyama Omotesando is my favourite shop.
It introduces well-designed sundries and items from artists and creators, and
The shop is always a pleasure to visit.
https://www.spiral.co.jp/en/shoplist/spiral_market
My favourite restaurant is a Thai place called Ban Thai in Shinjuku Kabukicho, which offers authentic Thai food. For Japanese food, then you should definitely visit the ramen restaurants.
